Tag Archives: Subwoofer
A stereo power amplifier is limited in its output power by two main factors – the impedance of the load and the internal power supply voltage. To obtain more power, one has very limited choices – other than the purchase of a more powerful amp.
The load impedance can be lowered, but if the load happens to be a pair of standard loudspeakers this is not viable, since the impedance is set by the drivers themselves. Increasing the power supply voltage is generally a bad idea, since most commercial amps do not have a wide safety margin with component ratings, and will probably be destroyed if the voltage were to be raised sufficiently to obtain even 50% more power.
In my quest to minimise enclosure size, I stumbled upon a strange concept that allows to effectively halve the equivalent volume (Vas) for a given loudspeaker. In practice this means that the volume of the enclosure can also be roughly halved. The catch is that two identical loudspeakers must be placed ‘in series’, such that the air in between them stays at the same pressure. This configuration is therefore often called ‘isobaric’, ‘isobarik’, or ‘push-pull’. In a certain sense, it turns the two loudspeakers into a single equivalent speaker that has twice the driving force. The most compact way to implement it is to mount the two speakers against each other as shown in the bottom part of the image. It is not often used, for the simple fact that it doubles the costs and power requirements for the amplifier. But in my case, those were subordinate to the strict requirement of minimal size.
Six hardwoods; 3/4″ inlayed solid top, solid birch legs Cherry, Maple, Yellow Birch, and Black Walnut frame Aged Walnut, sliced with a 3/4 ” strip of solid Cherry.
Each piece of wood is overcut, then precision fit. There is no glue involved in the top.
Gluing the top would disregard expansion and contraction of the different types of hardwood, causing it to break apart with age.
Most people do subwoofer, and imagine most people, huge crates of huge speakers and / or exotic tubes protruding from them, when “Subwoofer”, the term is mentioned. It is a fact that to reproduce very low bass, a wide interpretation is the simplest solution. This is in the “iron Hoffman,” which says roughly that you collect can never spoke more than two of these three characteristics of a housing formulated.
There are many possible designs for the speaker so. The first major decision is what type to use of so-called alignment The goal is to get to the deepest bass possible for the smallest size possible without the impossible amounts of electricity with components at reasonable prices. Thiele & Small fired formulas to describe the low-frequency behavior of designs on suitcase and carry, if the actual shape of the box is mostly irrelevant. For other models, such as horn speaker, the shape of the box is very important, but the modeling of these ideas is much more difficult. They are also usually quite large, so I limit my search for a suitable design to the following “classical”
Audiophiles have long regarded subwoofers as anathema to perfectionist audio systems. Sure, they provide one thing: deeper bass. But they typically do so at the cost of degrading performance in a whole host of other areas. The—not unreasonable—argument holds that since very little musical information occupies the ultra-deep bass region, not much is compromised by reducing output in the bottom octave.
In reality, though, the ideal subwoofer can reproduce more than the lowest pipe organ note. There is a wealth of ambient music cues in the deep-bass region. The ideal subwoofer opens up the soundstage to an extraordinary degree.
So, the guy that bought my Polks is also interested in buying my HSU sub. I hadn’t really considered the notion, because I’d end up spending a lot more on an upgrade.
After building my TV stand, my wife asked if I’d make a coffee table. Our current coffee table is too long, and frankly a piece of crap. I’m all for the idea, as soon as I come up with a decent design.
Then the lightbulb went off… kill two birds with one stone!
I’ve been reading quite a few threads over the last couple days, and the size I’d need would be similar to the size of the coffee table I want. I’d like to run a single 15″ driver and tune to around 15-18Hz. Nothing ridiculous like Sid or something… just a respectable sub that also functions as the center of our furniture.
TDA7294 with bridge connection on the circuit can give 200W power 2 x TDA7294 PCB size is very small CPU heatsink mounted is available used. 2x100W 200W mono or two-channel stereo output can be used as a single. All jumpers on the circuit board that all jumpers open short 200 watts mono subwoofer or hifi stereo systems 2x 100 watts.
Collecting information aboit UcD class d amp for subwoofer and need your help,
because it is a new area for me.
Here it is the requirements for the project:
1. It is UcD type class d amp.
2. uses full h-bridge – 2 x IR2110 + 4 x IRFB4227 + 2 x T200-2 as output filter.
3. Single supply +50 V !! ( transformer is allready in my hand !! )
SP150 subwoofer extends the low end of a system of internal speakers at 30 Hz.
The SP150 enhances the bass performance of a system of internal speaker 30 Hz designed to complement the speakers in the series SP62, it may also in any system that requires expansion to be used low. With ‘bass at low speed “, it is particularly suitable for use with the electrostatic panel speakers.
The SP150 has been designed to reproduce high quality sound and is one of waterproof construction. The compact uses two metal conductors 150 mm cone mounted in a face to face configuration isobaric. The SP150′s audio range covers 30 Hz to 10 kHz.